Things to Do in East Timor in August

Start the climb at 5:30 am while the air is still 20°C (69°F). The 570-step path to the 27 m (89 ft) statue smells of eucalyptus sap and wood smoke from early cooking fires. At the top the sun lifts over the Wetar Strait, turning the water copper while fishing skiffs blink their torches below. Descend to the roadside stalls for black coffee strained through sock filters and grilled corn rolled in chilli-salt.

August seas sit at 27°C (81°F) and visibility regularly tops 25 m (82 ft). Reef walls off Beloi drop to 40 m (131 ft) where you drift with green and hawksbill turtles while parrotfish crunch coral somewhere below. Afternoon thermals flatten the channel so the 45-minute boat ride back to Dili is usually smooth.

High-altitude Aileu stays a couple of degrees cooler than the coast. August is cotton-picking month. You twist raw fibres while listening to looms clack beneath stilt houses. The dye pots bubble with mango bark and turmeric, scenting the air sharp and earthy. You leave with a hand-spun scarf that still smells of wood smoke.

Nights at 1900 m (6234 ft) dip to 12°C (54°F) in August - cold enough for a beanie but dry enough to camp without a rain fly. Dawn on Mt Tatamailau (2986 m / 9797 ft) reveals both coasts at once, the south surf a white stripe along the black cliffs of Cova Lima. The only sounds are wind through eucalypts and the faint ring of cowbells from the high pastures.

East of Baucau, limestone cliffs hide freshwater caves where villagers collect drinking water in August when other wells turn brackish. Continue to the salt pans at Vemasse - black sand baked by the dry wind leaves paper-thin salt crystals that crunch like glass underfoot. Buy a twist of salt still warm from the sun. It tastes faintly of seaweed.